Tips & Tricks | Stem and Co

Long lasting indoor Hydrangea wreath from Stem&Co.

Care tips:

Over time the colours may fade, this is the nature of dried flowers. Choosing a position out of direct sunlight will ensure the colours remain for longer.

Please don't try and dust the wreath, the delicate petals may shatter if you touch them. Please position it away from anyone or thing brushing past it as this may alter the shape and look of the wreath as the petals are very fragile to the touch.

If any of the hydrangea material becomes dislodged, please do just push back into position and use the spare mossing pins provided for you to anchor them into position.

These wreaths could be hung outdoors protected in a porchway or by a storm porch but ideally positioned indoors in dry air to assist a longer life as damp in the air outdoors or being exposed to the rain would encourage bacteria to occur and the petals would then start to rot.

The aim is to allow the flowers used in the wreaths to dry out naturally and slowly. The wreaths have been constructed using fresh material positioned into damp floral foam rings. This enables the fresh material to start their drying process. When you get them home and hang it up it may drip excess water so hang where you can leave a towel or a bowl underneath to collect water to avoid it damaging your flooring or causing a slip hazard. There’s no need to re moisten the base just allow it to start to dry out which will allow the flowers attached to dry out too.

This image below shows how a Hydrangea wreath looks when allowed to become fully dried. It has retained the original colour and shows clearly how the petals look in their dried form.

These wreaths have all been lovingly made by ourselves in-store. We hope that you love your new wreath as much as we enjoyed making it for you. Thank you all for your orders and custom. Sam x

Unfortunately it is inevitable that in very warm weather it is harder to keep fresh cut flowers looking their best for as long. Flowers are more prone to wilting in the heat and bacteria, which cause the decline of cut flowers in the vase, which grow and multiply faster in warmer conditions.

But who wants a summer without cut flowers decorating the house?! And what could be better than a bouquet of summer blooms as hostess gift to take with you to a bbq gathering at a friends house.

We’re just going to have to be clever with how to beat the heatwave so we can still enjoy our flowers and help them last as long as possible in the vase.

Here are our top tips for prolonging the vase life of your cut flowers in warmer weather.

1. Keep Your Flowers in a Cool Spot

On hot summer days ( also applies to even in winter when the central heating is on) it can be hard to find a cool spot in the house which is also good position to display your flowers but the cooler your flowers are- the longer they will live. Keep the flowers out of bright, hot sunlight. Avoid a conservatory or a south-facing windowsill in the summertime. Simply try as best as you can to find a good compromise between somewhere to show off and enjoy looking at your flowers, and keeping them as cool as possible.

2. Keep the Water in the Vase Fresh and Re-Cut the Stems

Cut flowers need plenty of clean, fresh water in their vase to keep them at their best. They take up water through their stems which keeps them turgid and upright. Since water evaporates at a faster rate in warmer conditions, you need to keep an eye on the water level in the vase to make sure the flowers have plenty to drink.

What’s more, bacteria in the water will cause the flowers to perish and since bacteria grow and multiply more rapidly in warmer conditions, this is something to be aware of even more in hot weather. To keep bacteria levels as low as possible, make sure the vase you use is hygienically clean before you fill it, and every two or three days (or as required), remove the flowers from the vase, clean it, re-fill with fresh, clean water and trim the bottom inch of the stems at an angle before putting them back in the water.

Re-cutting the stems helps the uptake of water because it removes the ends of the stems which can get clogged up and reveals the open channels further up the stems. Cutting at an angle exposes more surface area for water uptake.

3. Keep Flowers Away from Ripening Fruit

As fruits ripen they release ethylene gas, also known as ‘the plant-ripening hormone’. As well as promoting the ripening of fruits, ethylene also has an effect on flowers, accelerating the ageing process to and causing buds, petals and leaves to drop. Fruits like bananas, tomatoes and apples produce particularly high levels of ethylene so you should definitely avoid placing your cut flowers near to your fruit bowl or even close to the tomatoes ripening on your kitchen windowsill if you want to keep them looking lovely for longer.

4. Flower Food

lf you want to keep them looking lovely for longer Make your own cut flower food. Simply mix 1 litre of water + 2 tbsp lemon juice + 1 tbsp sugar + 1/2 tsp bleach for a homemade flower food and water solution.

To elongate the life of your cut flowers we have invented our very own flower food in the form of a spray. We have called it Posy Potion: Simply spray lightly onto the foliage and flowers to extend their life and retain their colours for longer. One bottle of Posy Potion goes a long way there’s no need to drench them. A light spray will do nicely. It acts as an Anti-transpirant and stops water evaporating allows the stems to retain water for longer.

It is an all-natural, organic, biodegradable, and non-hazardous solution.

This Anti-transpirant made from pine resin is a natural compound applied to plant leaves to reduce transpiration of moisture.

Although we recommend spraying them outside or in a similarly safe location to prevent the solution from getting on unintended surfaces (e.g. counters, tables, walls).

The packaging looks great too so apart from being a vital tool it will look great on display along side your arrangement.

As always, thank you for reading and we hope that this inspires you to bring some nature into your home through flowers.

Soil additive

Your Friendly Mycorrhizal Fungi

Give your plants the best start in life. Within 4 weeks, plants will grow a huge secondary root system which will support them for their entire life.

Friendly Mycorrhizal Fungi is a soil additive to stimulate outstanding root growth in newly repotted plants.

It has an amazing ability to improve the quality of plants as they develop. This soil additive is a Mycorrhiza Fungi, once in contact with the plant’s roots the fungi rapidly develop, acting as a secondary root system for most plants. Plants are able to draw in more nutrients and become stronger, producing more flowers and fruit.

BENEFITS OF MYCORRHIZAE FOR HOUSEPLANTS

While we often focus on providing our houseplants with the right amount of light, water, and nutrients there's an invisible ally that can significantly improve their health: Mycorrhizal Fungi. These beneficial fungi form mutually beneficial relationships with plant roots, creating an underground network that enhances nutrient uptake, water absorption and plant resilience.

By using mycorrhizae, plant owners can ensure that their favorite houseplants have the ability to access essential nutrients in greater quantities. Some benefits of mycorrhizae include:

Improved Nutrient and Water Uptake

The greatest benefit of mycorrhizae is the fact that it can expand the plant’s root network and increase both its nutrient and water uptake. Essentially, your plant eats and drinks better when it has a friendly fungus helping it out.

While the use of beneficial fungi is not new, doing so indoors is a relatively new idea. Mycorrhizae can scavenge all the water and nutrients that are in any way available to them in the volume of local soil within a container, providing plant owners with a safety net in the event they are unable to fertilise or water their plants regularly.

Mycorrhizae can also assist with unlocking nutrients that can sometimes be difficult to otherwise extract from the soil. They can pull immobile nutrients such as iron and phosphorous nutrients from the soil and make them accessible to the plant.

Better Drought Tolerance

Because mycorrhizae assist plants in better retaining nutrients and water, this can make them more robust in the face of drought. When you water your plants, more of the water is absorbed and thus the plant can survive for longer periods of time if there is a dry period meaning less damage to plants if they are ever under watered.

Reduced Transplant Shock

When you move a plant from one pot to another, this can induce transplant shock. Like any living thing, a plant is a creature of habit and becomes accustomed to its soil.

When moved, a severe enough transplant shock can kill a houseplant. This can be devastating for the passionate plant owner.

By using mycorrhizae, plants can more easily acclimate to new soils. The increased amount of nutrients the beneficial microorganisms provide can help ease the transplant process.

Better Fruits and Vegetables

Because a plant with mycorrhizae will absorb more water and nutrients, the fruit or vegetables they may produce are more vibrant.

How to use.

The Mycorrhizae can be incorporated into your recently repotted plants by applying directly around the roots. Direct root contact is essential for the best results, as it holds the best odds for colonisation and success. Simply sprinkle a small amount of Mycorrhizae onto the root ball prior to planting.

(This pot contains approximately 30g)

Approx 10g for a 7cm pot

Approx 15g for a 10cm pot

Approx 20g fir a 14cm pot

Alternatively

To add mycorrhizal to your recently repotted plants, mix a solution of it with non-chlorinated water before adding it as a root or soil drench. Make sure you water it well and it makes direct contact with the roots.

There aren't any negative effects to your plants or your soil if you use more than the suggested amount Mycorrhizae. However, over-watering plants with any additive can lead to the soil and the plants' roots not receiving enough oxygen.

Marimo, a Japanese word which literally translates to “seaweed ball” are not moss at all - they’re actually a rare form of spherical algae. There’s no central stone or kernel inside the sphere - it’s solid algae, radiating from the center, growing radially outward at the snail’s pace of just 5mm per year. But in their natural habitats - few fresh water lakes in Japan, Estonia, Iceland, Scotland and Australia - they’ve been known to grow to between 8 and 12 inches in diameter.

Another reason to love Marimo moss balls is beautiful lore that surround these mysterious aquatics. Legend tells of two lovers who desired nothing more than to be together. When their love was forbidden, they fell into the water, and their hearts became Marimo balls. Marimo are said to bring your heart’s desire to both giver and receiver.

And of course, we love Marimo because they live for such a long time- with correct conditions they can live for 100+ years. For this reason, we often say that Marimo make wonderful family heirlooms.

Marimo moss ball care is quite simple. Here are a few guidelines.

Light

Keep your Marimo where they will receive low to medium indirect light. You must protect marimo from the direct rays of the sun, as Marimo can easily turn brown if they are getting direct light. Also keep in mind that direct sun will be intensified by glass marimo enclosures which can heat water quite quickly. Remember - these guys are native to cool lakes, and should be kept cool.

Marimo are well adapted to low light spaces and can photosynthesize in normal household light. If your space has no window, keep marimo close to a fluorescent or full-spectrum bulb.

Changing the Water

Change water once every two weeks using regular tap water. For best results, allow water to sit out for 24 hours prior to changing the water. You’ll need to change the water more often in summer, as it will heat evaporate more quickly. Clean your marimo enclosure with a brush if algae begins to grow on the tanks glass surface. From experience I’ve found that If you have a glass jar with a lid you dont have to change the water as often.

Browning

If your marimo turn brown, make sure they’re moved to a cooler location with less direct light. They may recover and turn green again on their own. If not, you may add a tiny amount of aquarium ocean salt.

Why are my Marimo Balls Floating?

More than likely, your Marimo balls have an air bubble trapped inside that is causing them to float. Gently squeeze your marimo balls to pop the air bubble. Generally, Marimo will sink to the bottom of their tank within 1-2 days of being added to an enclosure.

Keeping Marimo Shape Round

In their natural habitats, the waves and currents of the lakes gently rotate and roll the Marimo balls along the floor of the lake.

To ensure that Marimo keep their round form and don’t flatten out, you’ll want to gently agitate the water in your Marimo enclosure, with the goal that when your Marimo balls settle back to the bottom, they rest on a different side than they had prior. Try to simulate the gentle waves of a lake.

Enjoy your new pets! Look after each other x

Amy & Jay 2024 https://www.jameswilliams-photography.co.uk/weddings/ www.healingmanorhotel.co.uk

This box includes all the kit you will need to decorate your own festive wreath.

The box comes with the foliage wreath ready assembled all you need do is the fun bit- decorate it!

This kit includes a pre made foliage wreath along with some of the following decorative items: cinnamon sticks, baubles, fir cones and orange slices. The kit also comes with a pre made big florist bow, wires for easy assembly and these simple instructions.

Perfect for all abilities and for doing with children to really get into the festive spirit. Please do supervise younger ones throughout due to small part and wires.

Next year you could even hold your own wreath party and order multiple kits. This way you can all get together with your friends and hold your own house wreath making party.

Have fun!

Keep in touch! Tag me in your photos Id love to see what you make. Sam x

To assemble:

Protect precious work surfaces in the home from the damp wreath when assembling. Lay a mat or oilskin table cloth down to avoid scratching polished and wooden surfaces.

Lay the wreath flat to work on it.

Lay the decorative items onto the wreath and move them about before committing to stitching them in place permanently with the wires. You may not need to use all of the items included in the box. You could even swap some items with your friends if you’ve ordered multiple kits should you so wish.

Add other decorative items that you have if you wish for it to match and compliment the decorations you have on your tree and around the home.

Use the lengths of wire to attach the decorative items into place like you are sewing by stitching them together.

Top tips:

Wash hands after handling and wear protective gardening gloves as some greenery could be a skin irritant.

Assemble the wreath within 4 days of purchase for best results.

To elongate the life of your wreath we do advise that you keep it hydrated. In mild weather you may need to water it more than a simple spray so remove the wreath from its hanging position and lay on the floor and give it a good soaking from a watering can to remoisten the backing and allow the fresh material to have a good drink.

Avoid positioning in windy positions as this may dislodge some of the items.

A wreath that’s watered frequently in cooler weather will last much longer than one that relies on moisture from the air in mild dry weather. Care for your wreath and enjoy it for longer.

Thank you for purchasing this DIY wreath making kit from Stem&Co.

Stay in touch!

Don’t forget to tag us in the photos that you post online

Care Information

Each piece is unique, colours will vary between batches, and will contain small air bubbles that are part of the design.

Each piece is hand poured and has its own glorious imperfections this just serves to contribute to the unique character of the piece.
Currently available in two sizes.

These plant pots are treated with a water resistant sealant, but small cracks may appear if they have water sat in them. As concrete is a porous material- ideally select plants that need less water such as cacti and succulents.

The planters have felt pads underneath to protect worktops and your furniture.

They are intended for indoor use only.

The plants you chose to sit in the cement pots should be kept in their plastic nursery pots inside.

These pieces are not food safe.

Thank you for your purchase. I love a great plant pot and these really finish off the look to the plants wearing them. Shop the range available here.

Closed terrarium kit from Stem&Co

A closed terrarium is essentially a miniature landscape with its own rain cycle. Compared to open terrariums and dish gardens, your closed terrariums require minimal effort to maintain once they’ve been planted.

We’ve got you covered with everything you need to know about how to make a terrarium.

Container. The terrarium vessel included in your kit is secured for its ideal size and is made of clear glass to allow enough light for plants to thrive. You should also clean your container with soapy water and allow it to air dry before planting.

Terrarium tools. You can purchase terrarium tools or simply use items you have lying around the house. A long-handled spoon can be used as a substitute for a shovel. A cork attached to a chopstick can be used to pack down soil after planting. You can use clean sharp scissors for cutting damaged or yellow leaves.

Planting your terrarium

First step

Add Small Stones or Pebbles drainage layer first – Small stones or pebbles will be used as the base of your terrarium. The small pebbles act as water drainage for the plants roots to ensure that excess water doesn’t stay in the soil and cause rot. You may not need to add all of the provided drainage layer- ensure the level is no more than a fifth of the overall height of the vessel to make sure you have room for the soil and plants with room for the plants to live in.

Step two

Then add the Activated Charcoal – You won’t need much; a thin layer of activated charcoal keeps water fresh and helps to fight off bacterial growth in your terrarium.

Step three

Potting Soil – Potting soil will act as an important layer for your DIY terrarium. Your terrariums requires a potting mix with low fertility. It’s also got a mix of additional charcoal to add organic matter and absorb any chemicals or odors. You’ll need enough potting mix to fill your terrarium to the depth of the largest rootball of the plants you are adding into your terrarium. When you prepare for planting the soil should be damp, but not soaking wet.

Step four

Creating a design. You can choose to display only a single plant or many. If you included multiple plants in your terrarium but don’t overcrowd your design. Decide how your terrarium will be viewed — from all angles or from the front. If it’s only going to be viewed from the front, plant the tallest plant in the back and the smaller species in the front. If your terrarium is going to be viewed from all angles, the tallest plant should go in the center with the smaller plants blended around it. Consider your design before planting. It’s harder to change the design within the confined space of the terrarium.

Planting your terrarium. Make sure the soil is damp and start with the smallest plants first, leaving space for the larger plants as you go. Once everything is planted, clean off any dirty leaves and glass inside your terrarium with a clean, soft brush or paper towel.

Step five

Included within your kit is a variety of added extras, I’ve gathered and collected an amount of found seashells and wood items from our local beach. I’ve also added in some lovey grey slate. Insert these amongst your little plants to add interest and personality. These will add to your individual mini scapes. You can even go gather your own to make a really personal landscape. Make sure anything you add that you’ve collected has been sterilised and cleaned especially if found on the beach- boiling water will help. Don’t add anything made of metal.

Top tips

Avoiding pests and diseases. The humid enclosed environment inside a closed terrariums are perfect breeding grounds for pests and diseases. You should wash your hands or wear clean gloves before preparing and planting your terrarium. Additionally, if you notice any damaged or yellow leaves on your plants, remove them before planting.

Water. You’ll need to water your newly planted terrarium, but be careful not to over-water it. Misting you plants is one way to avoid over-watering. You can always add more water later, which is easier than trying to remove excess water. If there’s water on the foliage of your plants, leave the lid of your terrarium until it dries. Once lidded your terrarium should establish a rain cycle. Never use tap water. Dechlorinated or rain water is ideal.

You’ll notice condensation on the inside of the container, which rolls down to water your plants. The condensation should look like a light fog. Anything heavier is a sign you should remove the lid for a day or two to let it dry out some. Once the rain cycle has been established, your closed terrarium is almost maintenance-free.

Choosing a location. Now that your terrarium has been planted and is starting to become established, you’ll need to choose a permanent location for it. Bright rooms or near bright windows are preferred locations for most terrariums; however, many terrarium plants do well in dimmer rooms. If you determine your location beforehand, choose plants that can survive in the light offered in that location. If you choose your plants first, select a location that can accommodate the light requirements of your plants.

Maintenance

Removing the lid. Remove your terrariums lid once a week for up to 15 minutes to let in fresh air. This will also allow you to vent your vessel from any built up pressure from inside.

Watch for diseases. Because the environments inside closed terrariums are perfect breeding grounds for diseases, your terrarium can be devastated quickly if they’re not caught early. Check you terrarium a couple times a week and treat it with a diluted fungicide as soon as you notice infection.

Water. Only add water if you notice condensation has stopped, the plants start to droop, or the soil feels dry. If your container has a tight lid, this is only necessary every four to six months.

Suitable plants. If you ever select additional plants to include into your design you should choose small, slow-growing or dwarf plants that fit into your container with room to spare. Moss, lichen and ferns are ideal for closed terrariums because of their ability to survive in dim, moist environments. Choose healthy plants with similar light and moisture requirements.

Rotate the container. If you notice your plants growing towards the light source, rotate your container to even them out.

Pruning. Prune plants when they are yellowing, touching the glass or getting too large.

Fertiliser. Once a year you may want to fertilize with an organic water-soluble fertiliser at 1/4 the recommended rate. Spring is an ideal time to fertilise. Never fertilise during winter.

Stay in touch!

Tag me in any photos you post online Id love to see what you have created.

A terrarium is a collection of small, decorative plants growing in an enclosed environment. Terrarium containers are typically transparent and provide an opening big enough to allow the gardener to access the plants inside. The best part about terrariums is that you get to own something one-of-a-kind. A closed terrarium is essentially a miniature landscape with its own rain cycle. Compared to open terrariums and dish gardens, your closed terrariums require minimal effort to maintain once they’ve been planted.

Closed Terrarium Care:

Watering: Make sure there is some build up of condensation on the glass in the day time this shows that the terrarium is working and the water is cycling.

If there is no condensation, please water lightly. If there is too much condensation and you cannot see the plants clearly through the glass then please remove the lid to vent out some of the excess water until glass becomes clear and then replace lid. Repeat if necessary. Never use tap water- use a chlorine remover such as our Taptonic found in our plant care range or ideally collect rain water.

Light Preferences: Please ensure your terrarium is getting plenty of natural day light particularly in winter.

Closed terrariums will suffer in direct light. Ideally place near to a light source but never on a window sill.

Positioning: Rotate the container if you notice your plants growing towards the light source, rotate your container to even them out.

Pruning: Prune plants when they are yellowing, touching the glass or getting too large. Use sharp sterilised scissors to do so.

Temperature: Please ensure your terrarium is kept at a consistent temperature and never below 15 degrees.

Fertiliser: Once a year you may want to lightly fertilise with an organic water-soluble fertiliser at 1/4 the recommended rate. Spring is an ideal time to fertilise. Never fertilise during winter.

Please take care when transporting or moving your terrarium they are very delicate and care is needed with moving them.

Open terrarium:

Watering: Your terrarium will need to be watered. For cacti & succulents only water when soil is completely dry.

Do not over water Terrariums as they have no drainage. If too much water is given then this will cause root rot and the demise of your terrarium.

Never use tap water- use a chlorine remover such as our Taptonic found in our plant care range or ideally collect rain water.

Light preferences: Please ensure your terrarium is getting plenty of natural day light particularly in winter.

Positioning: Cacti and Succulents will tolerate some direct sunlight but be mindful that they may burn if positioned in direct light for prolonged periods particularly in the summer time. Positioned near to a window but away from direct light is best.

Pruning: Prune plants when they are yellowing, touching the glass or getting too large. Use sharp sterilised scissors to do so.

Temperature: Please ensure your terrarium is kept at a consistent temperature and never below 15 degrees.

Fertilise: You may want to lightly fertilise with an organic water-soluble fertiliser at 1/4 the recommended rate. I recommend our seaweed plant feed found in our plant care range. Spring is an ideal time to fertilise. Never fertilise during winter. Don’t over fertilise as there is no drainage then you may get a build up of sodium at the roots.

Terrarium returns policy:

Please follow all the care tips provided. Please get in touch if you have any questions once you get your design home with you.

Once home if a plant inside the design fails within 14 days of purchase. I will replace it free of charge.

After 14 days replacing plants or live material will be charged.

Peace Lily Care

The first thing that Peace Lily owners usually notice about their care is that they wilt pathetically if allowed to get the least bit too dry. This wilting can occur quickly and will result in the leaves sagging over the rim of the pot. Surprisingly, a badly wilted Peace Lily will recover just as quickly and dramatically once it is watered.

LIGHT: In their native habitat, Peace Lilies grow on the floor of the rainforest where the light is deep shade. Thus, Peace Lilies do not tolerate direct sunlight well at all. When exposed to direct sunrays, the leaves will turn a pale sickly green and sometimes brown. The best light is bright indirect light. That would be as close to a window as possible but just beyond the reach of the sun's direct rays.

WATER: Ideally, you will water your Peace Lily just before it starts to wilt. With a healthy new Peace Lily, that occurs when the surface of the soil still feels slightly damp. With older or newly repotted Peace Lilies the top half-inch or so of soil may need to dry before it reaches the wilt-point and needs water. It is the failure to recognise this change that an aging Peace Lily makes that most often leads to their demise because they are watered too often.

Once the soil has become very dry, it is sometimes hard to rewet the soil. If this happens, allow the pot to sit in several inches of water for an hour so that it can wick up the water and become completely saturated. Then wait until the plant just begins to wilt a bit before watering thoroughly once again.

HINT: Every couple of months let your Peace Lily start to wilt. This will tell you how long it can go or how dry it can get before it really needs water.

WATER QUALITY AND FERTILISER: Peace Lilies are sensitive to the buildup of certain minerals in the soil. If your local tap water is on the hard side, then use filtered, distilled, or rainwater for your plants. It is also important not to overdo the fertiliser (another source of minerals) as too much can damage the delicate roots. Our Seaweed plant feed is an ideal fertiliser for your Peace Lily.

Fertilise only when your Peace Lily is growing vigorously. Mix it at half strength and apply it monthly. Any balanced fertiliser is fine, but one with a higher middle number (5-10-5, for example) will help promote flowers a bit more than other formulations.

REPOTTING: Peace Lilies are more inclined to produce flowers when they are potbound. Moving your Peace Lily into a larger pot will discourage flower production and, worse, may lead to root suffocation. It is best not to repot, if at all possible. If your Peace Lily dries to the wilt-point every 2 or 3 days, then it might be ready for a pot one size larger. Otherwise, leave it in its existing pot.

TEMPERATURE: Peace Lilies don’t like temperatures below 60 degrees. Normal home temperatures are fine.

TRIMMING: Leaf tips and edges will turn yellow and brown for many different reasons including improper water, too much light, poor water quality, and too much fertiliser. Try to determine the cause and eliminate it to prevent further damage to the leaves.

Discoloured leaf edges and tips will not recover. Use sharp scissors to trim the discoloured leaf margins and tips. Cut so that the original contour or shape of the leaf is maintained, i.e., so that it does not look obviously cut. In some instances, it may be better to remove the entire leaf. Sterilise a shar pair of scissors with boiling water first before cutting.

PROPAGATION BY DIVIDING: Typically there are multiple Peace Lily stems growing out of the soil. These multiple stems help support one another and create a more compact, fuller-looking plant. In general, it is best to leave these multiple stems together in the same pot. Attempting to divide the plants will damage many of the fine root hairs and may permanently stress the plant.

FLOWERING: Why don’t my Peace Lilies bloom any more? This is a common question with many explanations. Most Peace Lilies sold today are hybrids that have often been genetically selected to produce very large leaves or a darker green color or variegated leaves. This is often done at the expense of continued flower production. Many hybrids are timed to produce a large burst of flowers at point-of-sale, but then only flower sporadically thereafter. Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do to alter the genetic makeup of your plant. Peace Lily blooms last one to three weeks, depending on the environment.

That said, there are several things that you can do to promote flowers within these genetic limitations:

• Provide bright indirect light rather than low light.

• Keep your Peace Lily potbound

• Fertilize monthly at half strength

If that doesn’t work, then enjoy your Peace Lily as the lovely foliage plant that it is.

GREEN FLOWERS: Sometimes new flowers emerge and are green rather than white. It's all in the genes and there is nothing you can do about it. Nearly all Peace Lilies sold today are hybrids that are "designed" to produce a flourish of white flowers at point-of-sale. After that, the flowering tends to be more sporadic and the flowers often revert to green.

DISCOLORATION OF LEAVES: Brown and yellow spots on the edges of leaves are very common with Peace Lilies and sometimes hard to eliminate. Unfortunately, there are numerous causes of these symptoms, including natural aging. If these symptoms are appearing on only a few of the older (lower) leaves, then it is just natural aging as healthy new leaves replace the older leaves. If it is more extensive than that, then it may be caused by improper light or watering or using hard water.

These symptoms are rarely a sign of disease or poor plant health. However, if newly formed leaves are discolored, then that is more serious and usually is a symptom of root suffocation due to overwatering. Often, it is too late by the time this particular symptom appears.

HUMIDITY: Low humidity is not the cause of leaf spotting on Peace Lilies. Many times people don't realise that plants need more water when the humidity is low because of increased evaporation. If the roots get too dry, especially if the soil is over-fertilised, brown spots will appear on the leaves as a result of the underwatering, not the low humidity.

LONGEVITY: Peace Lilies do have a tendency to decline as they age. They are not a particularly long-lived indoor plant although this can vary with particular varieties and overall care. When it comes to frequent flowers and a long life, keep your expectations low with your Peace Lily.

We guarantee our bouquets for 5 days from the day of purchase.

Here are 5 easy ways to assist your cut flower blooms so that you can enjoy them for as much time as is possible and get the most of out of them. Most of these tips you will only need to do once or once every two or three days and only take a minute.

1. WATER AS SOON AS POSSIBLE

This is pretty well known, but cut flowers need to get in water as soon as possible after you purchase them. You can get them in water and then arrange, trim, or cut them as needed later in the day when you can take the time for them.

2. KEEP THE STEM CLEAN

Every two to three days, you will want to make a fresh trim at the bottom of the stem preferably at an angle so that the flowers will have a fresh cut to suck up the water. Additionally, before putting the flowers in the water, you will want to remove any of the leaves or foliage on the stems that will be submerged in water. This will help prevent bacteria from breeding and keep the water cleaner for longer.

3. KEEP THE FLOWERS OUT OF THE SUN

Contrary to what you might think, cut flowers prefer a cool, dark spot out of the way of a draft, unlike their garden counterparts. The sun will dehydrate flowers faster. Place flowers away from windows where the sun will directly shine on them, and out of the way of any air conditioning units and radiators.

4. CHANGE THE WATER EVERY 2 – 3 DAYS

Replace cloudy and dirty water with fresh water every 2 to 3 days as needed to lengthen the life of your flowers. This will prevent bacteria from breeding and clogging up the cuts that the flowers are using to provide themselves with water.

Most vessels used to contain the flowers are glass vases- glass is the best material as it is easier to keep clean and bacteria at bay than say plastic.

5. FEED YOUR FLOWERS

Make your own cut flower food. Simply mix 1 litre of water + 2 tbsp lemon juice + 1 tbsp sugar + 1/2 tsp bleach for a homemade flower food and water solution.

It is an all-natural, organic, biodegradable, and non-hazardous solution.

This Anti-transpirant made from pine resin is a natural compound applied to plant leaves to reduce transpiration of moisture.

Although we recommend spraying them outside or in a similarly safe location to prevent the solution from getting on unintended surfaces (e.g. counters, tables, walls).

The packaging looks great too so apart from being a vital tool it will look great on display along side your arrangement.

As always, thank you for reading and we hope that this inspires you to bring some nature into your home through flowers.

The perfect plant collection.

Most of us appreciate and strive for perfection but understand that it is rarely achievable.

If I study my face in the mirror I have a scar running from my top lip. I have uneven eyes where one appears bigger than the other when I smile. Sometimes my glasses sit lopsided on my ears and the bridge of my nose bears the striking kink in it that some of my dear family have that has passed down the generations. I accept these flaws and blemishes.

Sometimes we expect too much from our houseplants, wanting them to stay as nearly perfect as the day we bought them. Most houseplants sold commercially are grown by specialist growers in greenhouses where they carefully control light, temperature, humidity, where they are fed with nutrients and plant feeds, and also watered to perfection. But when those plants are brought and taken home which are not those exact greenhouse grown environments so our houseplants are bound to develop some imperfections.

Even when your house plants are cared for as perfectly as possible, where you’ve researched the plant species and it’s requirements, you own grow lights and good plant feeds and plant care products they will still not be ‘perfect’. Like all living things, they develop imperfections and they don’t live forever. Minor leaf blemishes and discolorations are normal, expected, and best ignored. Older leaves will gradually die back as they age.

If you want to have houseplants don't expect them to be perfect and try not to overreact to common plant imperfections.

Accept what you cannot control and enjoy what you can accomplish with your houseplants. Expect and embrace the imperfections and focus on all of the positive aspects of how much your plants have flourished under your care and don’t focus on slight leaf blemishes.

The photos that illustrate this article are taken from my own private plant collection. I certainly have scars, rips and tears especially in plants that have bigger leaves as they become really noticeable on these. I have scarred plants that are recovering from pest infestations and plants that have spotting due to under or over watering, until I got used to the each plants needs then these marks are the tell tale signs that I learnt along the way in my plant collection. Can you relate?

I often find I’ve got pockets full an unidentified collection of leaves from walking round pinching off the old leaves here and there that die back. Try not to worry when this happens, your plant is acting as it should by giving way old leaves to allow for the new growth to come through.

The plants I’ve collected, care for and adore are far from ‘perfect’ but bring me so much joy. I hope that the aim of this article has helped you embrace your imperfections too.